Rating: ★★★ 6.9 out of 10

“Valfrejus is a village and small ski resort on French side of border with Italy. It is a part of Eski-mo domain. Pistes are short if you compare them with more famous resorts but they are diverse. Expert skiers might get bored after several days. Solution for this problem could be to visit other resorts in the domain or in the neighbourhood. Runs are well-groomed. Conditions are perfect for speed riding. There is a wide choice of off-piste spots. Prices of a ski pass and accommodations are affordable. Evenings are quiet, Valfrejus is suitable for families.”

PROS: Affordable, you get to visit several resorts with one ski pass or small amount of extra money, off piste opportunities, great for beginners

CONS: small, night life

SLOPES

Valfrejus is part of Eski-mo domain, which has 5 resorts and 335 km of unconnected slopes. If you buy a ski pass for the whole domain you will be able to visit Aussois (55 km of runs), Bonneval (25 km), La Norma (65 km), and Val Cenis (125 km).  Val Cenis is not to be missed. If you don’t have a car there is a shuttle bus. Departures are from Tuesday to Thursday, every day to different resort – check out the timetable.

There is also the great chance to visit 3 Valleys. For only 22 EUR extra, you will be able to ski in Val Thorens for a day. If you are willing to pay additional 32 EUR you will be able to visit the whole 3 Valleys (don’t think that it is good idea because you won’t have enough time). In order to do so, don’t drive all the way to Val Thorens (2h by car) instead go to Orelle which is only 20 min away. From there you will have access to the whole 3 Valleys domain.

Valfrjejus has 65 km of pistes. They are best suited for beginners and intermediate skiers. There are black runs but they are not particularly steep. The only special thing about them is the fact that they are not groomed at all. Other runs (Blue and red) are well-maintained.

There is a gondola which will take you from the village (1,550 m) to the centre of resort. Queues are possible in the morning. From there you can take a fast chair lift which will get you to the highest point of the resort called Punta Bagna (2,737 m).  The longest descent is the 13 km trail from Punta Bagna to the bottom of the gondola, with a decent altitude difference (1,187 m) for such small resort.

Snow reliability above upper station of gondola is good due to height, snow making machines and orientation of the slopes.

Speed riding is a relatively new sport, a combination of skiing and paragliding. It is very exciting but dangerous. Valfrejus has perfect conditions and it is one of first places in France where it was practiced. If you want to get involved in speed riding there is school called Ataka. It will cost you 500 EUR to learn the basics.

FREERIDE AND TERRAIN PARKS IN VALFREJUS

There are lots of good spots for freeriding due to the treeless upper area of the resort. When you get to the top of the Punta Bagna you will have plenty to choose from. Also you will find a wide smooth terrain for off-piste excursions around Col 2 lift.

Valfrejus is not advertising their snow park but it exists. It is small and has only 2 kickers and several fun boxes. It is built at the top of Petit Vallon lift. There is also a short boardercross course for beginners in the area.

HOW TO GET TO VALFREJUS

Valfrejus is situated in eastern France. It occupies part of the Maurienne Valley which connects Italy and France.  If you are driving from Italy you will have to pass through Frejus tunnel. TIP: buy return ticket immediately because it is going to cost you around 55 EUR (one way ticket is 45 EUR). Take the exit from A43 motor way at Modane and you will have a short climb before you get to the village. Parking was free during our stay.

Closest airports are in Turin and Chambery. Turin is around 120 km away (1h 30 min by car). Chambery is also 120 km away and it will take you the same amount of time to get from airport to the resort like from Turin (1h 30 min).

Modane is the closest larger settlement near Valfrejus. Except from motorway exit there is closest train station. Regular trains arrive there from Turin and Paris. You can organize a transfer from Modane to Valfrejus as they are only 7 km away, even a taxi ride should not be too expensive.

WHERE TO STAY IN VALFREJUS

Valfrejus is a purpose-built ski resort but architects didn’t make the same mistake like in Les Menuires or Tignes. Buildings are up to 5 storeys high, built to resemble the more traditional, chalet style. Lots of wood was used during construction.

The village is small and buildings are mainly constructed around the gondola station. There is also an adventure centre for kids and an ice rink in the neighbourhood. When there is enough snow almost all the places where you can stay are ski in/out.

There are no luxurious hotels. You will get the best value for your money if you rent a self-catering apartment. We stayed at an apartment hotel called La Turra. It had seen better days but rooms were bigger from the French average. Apartments are well furbished, the kitchen has a dishwasher. La Turra has a small spa area with open air pool and sauna.

WHAT TO DO AFTER DAY ON SNOW (APRES-SKI) IN VALFREJUS

During day you can have a break on the sun deck at Punta Bagna. There is a restaurant with a wide choice of food and drinks. The view is beautiful.

Evenings are quiet. There are several restaurants and bars around base station of gondola. Shops are mainly selling ski or snowboarding equipment. Visit Rock N’ Beer, they have a wide selection of wine and beer, and you can catch a live concert there.